Designer’s carnival fashion reflects trend
by LISETTE FELIX
Up-and-coming clothing designer M’wafrica Haynes’s signature work is the ‘pretty mas’ style of Carnival costumes. A longtime lover of the celebration – his mother was a popular Soca singer named Lady Neema – he is fond of the more risqué style beloved by the public, but not favoured by traditional designers. Pretty mas are scanty costumes generally made of bikinis, beads and feathers, while traditional mas features historical human and animal characters.
His designs feature structured starched and wired bras and chest pieces, made in a heady mix of vivid, yellow, red, white blue and gold, that are reminiscent of Queen Boadicea or Trojan soldiers going into battle. Women’s costumes are adorned with strings of beaded fabric, their crotch pieces studded with coloured crystal and hand-painted feathers. On their heads are crowns made to resemble majestic birds of prey and reptiles. Men, meanwhile, sport breast plates, arm and wrist bands and feathered wings spanning their backs and shoulders. Their costumes are far less risqué, but just as colourful.
Haynes developed his appreciation of ‘pretty mas’ from his grandmother. Guyanese of Ethiopian African heritage. She was a seamstress whose fashionable African inspired bespoke outfits were worn by friends and the country’s fashionistas. Haynes describes her as his greatest influence. As a child, he would spend many hours helping her fill her orders.
“My grandmother was my inspiration because without her I would not have had the confidence to do what I love now.”
Haynes, who also goes by Wafi (pronounced Woffie – meaning loyal), a nickname his grandmother gave him – his official first name M’wafrica means Prince of Africa – began pursuing his designing dreams when he left Guyana and began to travel, first to Belize, where he lived for 16 years and then to London, where he now lives.
Over the years, he has been actively involved in the arts and culture of these countries. He taught dance with the Belizean band, the Titans, helping to make their costumes and later became their Carnival King.
The London-based Masquerade 2000 was the band to emulate when Haynes began designing. He was so excited about the prospect of working for it that he decided to make a trip to London on a whim after members ignored his requests to join.
In 2021, now in the UK capital, he approached Masquerade 2000 again. This time, impressed with his designs and previous history in Guyana and Belize, members invited him to join the band. For Haynes it was the perfect opportunity to see firsthand how they put together the shows, the spectacular costumes, the music they selected and best of all, their truck.
Sourcing his materials from local London markets, he quickly started making costumes for individuals – one at a time — and then as word spread and his intricate style of ‘pretty mas’ designs gained momentum, he started making increasingly more bespoke costumes.
Haynes, who works full-time at a local restaurant, says realising that he could “do the whole thing by myself,” decided it was time to break away from traditional mas. But Masquerade 2000 was not ready for the sight of crystal, feathers and diamanté scantily clad young men and women, so the two now focus on different costume styles.
While he appreciates costume design that has elements of both traditional and pretty mas, he says supporters of traditional costumes would likely not be comfortable with his art form. “If I suggested that they would chase me.” Haynes works with clients to develop their vision, getting inspiration from nature, marvel comics, and other bands’ costumes. Funki Fabrics in Cheshire is his material store of choice, “but it’s a hunt girl, if I’m to get something that people haven’t seen before, ” he says laughing.
He will debut his costumes, which range from £200 – £400, at the 2024 Notting Hill Carnival. They will be worn by his new band affiliation, the magic mas band.
And this is only the beginning for Haynes who hopes to one day have his own store focusing on the designs he believes in. “Pretty mas is the future. It is trendy, it’s pretty, it’s shiny, and it really sells. Women love it and they are the majority of the people who wear it.”
For more information, please contact Wafi M’wafrica Haynes: 07934598339
Designer’s carnival fashion reflects trend
London-born Black Brit journalist Olive Vassell has co-edited and written a chapter on her birthplace for a pioneering book about Europe’s Black communities. Mapping Black Europe: Monuments, Markers, Memories is the first account by Black Europeans who have collectively marked sites of public memory, from monuments and statues to street names and city plaques, in the European capitals they call home.
The capital city is one of eight highlighted in the book, others are Berlin, Brussels, Luxembourg City, Oslo, Paris, Rome and Warsaw. The work highlights the experiences of each city’s Black communities, offering answers to questions, such as: What is the state of Black memory? Which Black philosophical movements have helped to rewrite distorted histories? How is community activism involved?
In London, monuments like the African Caribbean War Memorial and the Mary Seacole statue are spotlighted, revealing extensive histories about how they came to be created and who was involved. The impact of the Black Lives Matter movement is a starting point for all the book’s chapters, including London.
In tracing the long history of Black communities who challenge racism and create their own memorials to mark Black presence and contribution, this publication allows for comparison and for a collective narrative to be formed across the continent, creating a ‘Blackprint of Europe’.
In addition to Vassell, other contributors include co-editor Natasha A. Kelly, as well as Sibo Rugwiza Kanobana (Brussels), Bernardino Tavares, Aleida Vieira (Luxembourg, Epée Hervé Dingong (Paris,) Michelle A. Tisdel (Oslo)l, Kwanza Musi Dos Santos (Rome), and James Omolo (Warsaw).
About the editors
Olive Vassell is a journalist and professor who founded and headed the pioneering Black European news site, Euromight.com (2009-2022). Olive launched BBrit Project in 2022 and was joined by sociologist and writer Lisette Felix in 2023. BBrit Project is a content platform that aims to amplify the people, places, events, histories and ideas that embody the Black British experience.
Natasha A. Kelly, PhD, is a bestselling author and editor of eight books, Natasha acts as curator, artist, filmmaker, theater director and professor. Her film “Millis Awakening” debuted at the 10th Berlin Biennale in 2018. Natasha presently is the founding director of Germany’s first Institute for Black German Arts and Culture.
Mapping Black Europe: Monuments, Markers, Memories
Natasha A. Kelly & Olive Vassell (editors)
Published by Transcript Verlag on March 2023
Hardback £25.73/ €29.00
Free downloadable PDF available: here
Stunning costumes!